I have not seen any housings with independent high beam adjustment. The internal structure on most of them on a stock looking housing have them connected...so both move together when you adjust the low beam.

So you have HID high beams?? Those take a bit to warm up...at least for a quick flash.

 

Neal,

They ARE independently adjustable....(I didn't know it either until Ryan told me so.....)
and with the relay harnesses, full bright is almost instantaneous.

 

Oh nice! The left and right is excellent to have also. I would probably do the highs by some trial and error. And would start with pretty much level. You could use a wall if you can access them with them installed and much like measuring 2" down from level at 25' you can just set the highs a level. See how that looks on back roads driving and if you want them up higher or if you need them slightly lower to cover the road better.

 

Roo, this may not apply down in Texas, but if you have sort of inspection station requirement, they likely have an aiming board. I will agree that HIDs in the High side is a bad idea due to the warm-up period for HIDs, but if you do a high/low mod, your lows would stay on when you flash the highs, so you'll still have that light source.

Whatever you set them to, you could also park in an open lot and ask a friend in a car to sit 25-50 feet in front of you, and approach at night, see how the light hits them, sort of being courteous to others if you care...lol

 

Since the Hi beam is a reflector I would think like neal suggested level at 25' or even maybe +1-2" from level. Guess it sort of depends on what you want to be able to see with highs on. Could even point them more towards the sides of the roads for deep by the looks of it.

Also like rick mentioned I would do the high/low mod

 

High beams are not meant to be run when there is oncoming approaching traffic or if you are behind someone either. There are some distances where there is enough separation and is ok to use, but aiming height is irrelevant for that. There is no beam inspection here in TX.

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/he ... -50-states

 

I wasn't too busy at work this afternoon, and the "boss" left early, so I've been doing a little surfing, and actually found 2 sources for aiming hi beams.

For your reading pleasure:

https://www.jwspeaker.com/blog/how-to-a ... eadlights/

https://v-ledsblog.com/2010/11/16/aimin ... highbeams/

 

Measured from center of the low beam headlight lens measure to be 2" lower @ 25' and leave the hi's alone. They were pretty good out of the box for me. Lows should stay on when Hi's are on with HID set up so warm up shouldn't be an issue. My HID Lows are on with my Hi's when Hi is selected.

 

Out of the box the hi beams are terrible on mine. The left could be a search helicopter. LOL! Good thing daylight savings time starts Sunday.

 

Can you post a video of your headlights in action. I just want to see how long it takes from headlights being off to turning on to see how long it takes for the low beams to be at max brightness then could you turn your high beams on so I can see how long it takes for them to come up to max brightness? I have never had HIDs and although my truck has projectors that have 1 bulb so they act as low and high beam at once, I still am curious how long it takes.
You could just sit in your truck at night point the camera out the front windshield then tell us you are turning the lights on now, we will see the lights out front. Then tell us you are turning on high beams and do that.

Thanks

Also I know it's too late but you could have looked at how your stock set up looked as far as high beam height before you changed them out then just set the new ones up the same.

 

holy crap :lol:

 

Sounds pretty simple to me but sometimes you have to break it down for internet people... they ain't always the brightest (pun intended) people in the world.

 

As soon as I get them properly aimed, Terry.....

 

Mine come on full briefly with a jolt and then go dim starting the warm up till full. Approx. 5 seconds for this process with both my 35 and 50 watt set. Jeff, your using Morimoto correct?

 

Are yours hooked up like rooranchstyles? 5 seconds seems like an awfully long time.

 

Mine come on full briefly with a jolt and then go dim starting the warm up till full. Approx. 5 seconds for this process with both my 35 and 50 watt set. Jeff, your using Morimoto correct?

I installed Diode Dynamics.......seems like much fewer than 5 seconds....

 

I would be curious to how they look when trying to do several quick flashes. I would also wonder if that's good for the hid system

 

I could be mistaken but I believe stock HID systems are in projector lenses like in my Sierra where they use 1 bulb and it is lit all the time. A shutter covers some of the light for low beam then when high beams are activated the shutter moves out of the way to reveal the full beam of light.
I never thought about it like Goat just said, flashing them off and on probably doesn't help the bulbs life too well.

 

^ that is correct. No power up/down time required for high beam on/off

It's why hid high beams were never that great of an idea. And led replacements do not project the light as far.

For high beams. A set of bright halogens is best.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Read the second article, Terry...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/sh ... f3869866bf

 

Read the second article, Terry...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/sh ... f3869866bf

Yes I know the headlights in the 2014-2015 Sierras had issues. My truck already had the increased voltage to the headlights done before it shipped out of the factory according to my build date and a while back I bought the newer halogen bulbs they recommended to help the issue. It did help a very small amount to give better light but I never had a real issue with the light output anyways. The LEDs helped even more.

The shutters are not something new that were created for the Sierras and are not an issue on other vehicles. These trucks just happened to have not so good headlights for some reason.

Our Impala also uses the same 9012 bulb and has a shutter in the projector housing so no on and off for low and high beams.

 

made me curious so I did some research too.. seems to be all over the place. Some sites say aim them exactly like the low beams and then one actually said the middle of the high beam pattern should sit on the cutoff line of the low beams.

So i would just match them with the low beam pattern and run it.

 

On lamps with separately adjustable high beams, I have always adjusted them like this

Measure from the ground to the center if the high beam lense. Be it a reflector or projector.

Park 25 feet away from a wall on a level surface and mark the distance you measured before fir your height.

Then measure from center to center across the high beams. And mark that on the wall.

Aim the hot spot of the high beams directly at the two points where the up and down and left and right measurements cross for both sides.

Basically all your doing is making sure they are pointed straight ahead in both the up and down and left and right axis.