You can bend it slightly out the way, or unbolt the bracket and leave it all together...

 

I would rather unbolt it. I've read that to unbolt it, there are two T40 screws? I'm not sure what that is and I crawled under there and couldn't really see anything.

 

You cant see them. They are on top! Youll need to feel or get a mirror. I have pics in the how to section in a thread called "how to do full changeover in 4l60e + filter"

Its shows the bolts.. Torx 40

 

I see your pics. I am thinking now of maybe just bending it out of the way. I'm not sure what Torx 40 are.

 

Torx is a type of tip. Just like phillips is a type of tip. Or flat head is a type of tip. Torx is just another type... 40 is the size...

 

Oh ok. So, I think I read an Allen wrench would work on this..is that true?

 

no. it won't work. the point of a torx bit is to fine torque the screws,

 

Hmmm, well I don't have those types of tools, and I don't really have to the money to go buy them right now. I guess I will "bend" it out of the way like others have suggested. I am worried that I will break something if I do this.

 

you can get a set for less than 5 bucks at your local harbor freight.

 

Oh really, that's not bad at all. What about removing the cable from the ball stud? I don't know what that means or how to do that.

 

You dont have to take it apart...

 

I think I'm just going to bend it out of the bracket.

 

Now when you say bend it out of the way, do I have to bend it out of the bracket, or just bend it toward the driver side while I loosen the bolts on the transmission pan?

 

Jus push the whole bracket assembly out the way... just enough for the pan to drop...

 

You cant see them. They are on top! Youll need to feel or get a mirror. I have pics in the how to section in a thread called "how to do full changeover in 4l60e + filter"

Its shows the bolts.. Torx 40

Damn, finding those bolts are a bitch. I crawled under there and was feeling around on top of the tranny pan, but I did not feel any bolts. How did you manage to even get a wrench in there lol?

 

Mach knows his way with a tranny....................

 

Jus push the whole bracket assembly out the way... just enough for the pan to drop...

Yep, think that's what I'll end up doing. There's only two bolts on the pan I can't get to because the cable is in the way, so I'll just bend it to get to those two. I also saw a video on youtube were a guy just popped the cable out of the bracket...

 

You cant see them. They are on top! Youll need to feel or get a mirror. I have pics in the how to section in a thread called "how to do full changeover in 4l60e + filter"

Its shows the bolts.. Torx 40

Damn, finding those bolts are a bitch. I crawled under there and was feeling around on top of the tranny pan, but I did not feel any bolts. How did you manage to even get a wrench in there lol?

u see the pic in my how to?

 

Yep, I study your pics a lot last few days...

 

With out access of hoist easiest way is to unbolt front driveshaft at front diff and pop off so it hangs down. After removing shifter cable from bracket, youll now have enough room to completely bend bracket out of the pan area. Those torx bolts are a pain to get out sometimes or strip out on you. Then unbolt pan and sometime youll have to pry down exhaust a little to get pan to loosely come down. Do not force pan out. You can crack the rear shift solenoids doing thay. Ive done hundreds of these

 

How do I unbolt the driveshaft? If I can get that out of the way I can unbolt the bracket.

 

Do not remove the bracket, it is unecessary and you run the risk of stripping them like I did. Be careful when removing the pan if you did not drain before hand, as it can be messy. This DOES apply to NBS trucks. This does NOT apply to the models that require pertial removal of the exaust. This IS identical to the professional mechanic process. If you have access to a vehicle lift, do not hesitate to use it. If you do not, the process will be more difficult and time consuming due to the limited space, but just as possible.

1. Remove the heat shield to the side of the transmission or bend out of the way.
2. Pop the shift cable from the ball-joint on the shift lever with a flat head screw driver.
3. Remove metal clip from the plastic retainer on the shift cable. Squeeze the two plastic extrudes and push back through the bracket or out the side. The shift cable should now be completly free.
4. Use a crowbar or something similar to bend the shift cable bracket away from the transmission as far as possible..
5. Remove the bolts from the pan while applying upward pressure to prevent the pan from falling. DO NOT ALLOW DIRT TO CONTAMINATE THE BOLT THREADS. ENSURE CLEAN BOLT THREADS BEFORE REINSTALLING.
6. With your other hand use a small crowbar or something similar and pry the bracket out of the way of the pan. While prying the bracket out of the way, wiggle the pan out gently. Do not force, do not stress, and have patience. Do not worry about causing damage to the bracket, you will not.
7. The pan should now be free.
8. To reinstall, bend the bracket out of the way again and put the pan back in place, ensure correct alignment of the pan and seal.
9. Hand tighten the bolts around the pan.
10. Tighten to specifications.
11. Bend shift bracket back in place and heat shield if not previously removed.
12. Push shift cable plastic retainer through the bracket and reinstert metal clip. Does not matter what side the metal clip is reinstalled.
13. Reconnect shift cable to the shift lever ball-joint.
14. Reattach heat shield if removed.
15. Add transmission fluid.
16. Allow to idle for one minute before moving the vehicle and check for correct fluid level while idling.