When new cars are shipped normally they are tied down using the frame holes, that said I prefer using wheel nets to secure my vehicles.

 

I have always used ratchet straps that go over the axle. Two on the rear in an X pattern and one on the front. Towed all over the southeast with no issues.

 

The problem with only tying down the axles is that the suspension is still free to move. Tying down to the frame is the best option but that might not be available on a low car. One of the rules we use on the jet is no more than 50% of tie down can be to the axles for the reason of suspension. We area also tying down for 3 G's forward, 1.5 G's aft and lateral plus 2 G's vertical. Having said all that...when I trailer my corvette I tie it down from the wheels.

 

When I worked for an auto transport company. We'd try to strap it by the frame two straps pulling forward and two pulling backwards. Also by the wheels as stated above.

 

When we drag raced with an open trailer, we strapped over the axles. Forward and rear straps. Never had an issue.

 

Thanks guys for the feedback. I am planning on using two straps crossed in the front and two crossed in the rear to the axles. I may put a chain to the rear axle connected to the other hook in the trailer floor just for a safety chain not too tight, I don't want to wear the paint off my freshly painted axle so I may wrap the axle with a packing blanket where I chain it. The straps themselves are double padded. I'm not too secure yet about straps since I'm used to chaining down tractors on the flatbed trailer.

 

Tow truck operator here. We always use the frame points for the most secure tie down point. The wheels if no points available and the axles as a last resort as the suspension can flex a bit much.

 

And as a commercial truck owner operator for several decades, I have to side with the frame securement methods mentioned. A bouncing vehicle tied down by tire nets or by the axles may not be an issue, but hit the right rough road and it can be a handful. There is good reason that the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration sets regulations regarding cargo securement, so that folks don't play fast and loose with how they secure cargo to a trailer. The average citizen is not under those regs, and generally is unaware of them, but it is advisable they follow those standards.

 

I have a few car hauling questions. I have an 18ft open trailer. I like to haul my 2005 GTO around on it every once in a while to the track or to get tuned. The car itself weighs 3,900 lbs. I've been using 2 pairs of straps, one pair each strap is rated at 3,333 lbs (10,000lbs break strength) and the other pair are rated at 2,000 lbs (6,000 lbs break strength). Are these straps sufficient enough to handle my car? Also in the future I might be hauling my other vehicle which is a TB SS and it weighs 4,900 lbs. Will these work?

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Ok guys, I may be overthinking this (which I'm good for) but I'm hauling this truck almost 1800 miles. I have read so many ways to strap this truck. Crossed at the front and rear and then I read straight in the front and crossed at the rear. Any input to what will be the safest?

 

I used to be a tow driver, and am Wreckmaster trained. We learned about securing the vehicles by the axles, the frame, and by the wheels. Straight connections and crossed connections. Chains and straps.
We were not taught what was "better". It was just a matter of doing what you could, depending on the vehicle and situation.

The big thing we learned: You need to tie down from four points, and none of them can be the winch. The winch should have a little slack.
Check tightness regularly. I think it was after the first 10 miles, and then every hour from there. Check for contact between components and the tiedowns.

Each tiedown should be rated for the weight of the towed vehicle, and that rating is the WLL, not the breaking strength.

 

I have towed a drag car (3490 lbs) on an 18 foot open trailer for 9 years and I strap the car down by the frame to limit the movement of the suspension. In addition, you can see how I strapped a 59 Olds (4900 lbs) that I towed back from CA this year. Used the same methods and strapped the car down by the frame to all four corners. I really don't see a benefit by crossing the straps, like it was mentioned before, it's really what you are able to do a particular vehicle. My ratchet straps are rated for 5000 lbs. each.

 

Here are some other things to think about:
The best way to secure the vehicle by the frame has the straightest run. If you look at the picture of the Olds above, you will see that the rear straps are almost parallel to the vehicle and trailer. So, as the car moves up and down the strap isn't getting much tighter and looser. If you secure straight down to the frame to you place HUGE shock loads on the straps/chains as the vehicle bounces. The only way around that is to secure it so tightly that the suspension is bottomed out.
Securing the axle is superior is this fashion, since the axles tend to stay right where they are, so nothing tightens or loosens going over bumps. However, as already mentioned, the vehicle is still free to "float" around, which can make the trailer less steady. A heavy vehicle with weak shocks bouncing around on the bed can be an issue.

Something that has become much more common in the towing industry are wheel straps. This is mostly because bumpers and air dams are getting lower and things are tighter, so it is much more difficult to secure cars to flatbeds without damaging something than it used to be. You can't even secure to the axles on most new vehicles, because so many parts have become lightweight, otherwise known as "just strong enough not to break when you drive".
Wheel straps grab the tires from behind (the inner sidewall) just above centerline, with another "dogbone" strap to create a basket, and then hood to the bed forward and aft of the tire. This is done to all four wheels.
Since most vehicles now have the tires close to the side of the body this means the straps will not touch the body of the car, and the car can not move side to side. It also should not move fore and aft, but it's always a good idea to lock the wheels somehow.
Unfortunately, I don't know of any trailers that are set up to use that tiedown method.