So I would like to start and thank everyone who helped me with my install through this forum. Without your input, i would have had to take my truck to a professional shop and spend even more money.
To start off, disconnect the negative terminal from your truck battery. i ran the 4 gauge power wire from the battery through the firewall in the drivers side by the wiring harness. Be sure to run an fuse within 18 inches from the battery to prevent any vehicle fires.
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Below is a picture of the power wire going through the firewall grommet. I punched a hole and ran the wire straight through. The following picture shows the wire coming through under the drivers side dash behind the fuse box.
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I ran my power, remote, and bass knob (if you have one) down the driverside panels to the rear seat. The rca wires were run from the center console to the passenger side panels on the right side of the truck. (it is best to not run the power wire with the rca's so you dont get any engine noise through your sub.
Now for the remote turn on wire (the skinny blue one that turns on your amp when you turn on the vehicle) I did a lot of research and tried a lot of different options and this one seemed to be the cleanest and easiest. The pictures show a computer box under the driver side dash that have some clips in it. Thanks to others on this forum, i found out this is a good connection to receive your 12v source. I purchased some mini crimp connectors and just plugged the remote wire onto the ignition circuit. Works great! when the vehicle turns on, the amp will, and when you turn off the ignition, the amp will turn off. View the pictures below for reference. FYI i wrapped my crimp connector in electrical tape to prevent any touching with other metal components.
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Now the next step is the RCA's. I chose to keep the stock head unit because i wanted to keep the steering wheel controls and i heard that the stock Bose system puts out a good clean signal to the speakers and Sub. So i ran the RCA's under the center console and soldered them into the sub output wires between the Bose amp and the Bose sub. After you splice and solder, you need to wrap each individual wire with electrical tape so they do not touch each other. I like to wrap the harness as well to keep everything looking stock as possible.
Channel #1
+ dark blue with white stripe
- light green with black stripe
Channel # 2
+ dark green
- light blue with black stripe
The 2 ground connectors on your LOC unit just wrap together and cover with electrical tape. (these are grounds which you do not need to mount anywhere.
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Now after the hard part is done, i mounted my amp to the bottom of the rear seat using some excess MDF i had from the sub enclosure i made. The wires are all attached as shown in the picture, and as you can see, there is enough breathing space when the seat is down to keep your amp cool.
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The box i built myself, because im broke and had the extra material lying around from a previous build in a Honda Civic, so give me slack on the crappy carpeting job. You can buy a box for your application for around $130 i think. Over all, the system sounds great and shakes the hell out of my truck! My gain is only at 50% and this is a 300 watt system running at 4 ohms. The pictures are below. Let me know if you should have any questions or advice. I love to learn!!!
![Image]()
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![Image]()
[/URL][/img]
To start off, disconnect the negative terminal from your truck battery. i ran the 4 gauge power wire from the battery through the firewall in the drivers side by the wiring harness. Be sure to run an fuse within 18 inches from the battery to prevent any vehicle fires.
Below is a picture of the power wire going through the firewall grommet. I punched a hole and ran the wire straight through. The following picture shows the wire coming through under the drivers side dash behind the fuse box.
I ran my power, remote, and bass knob (if you have one) down the driverside panels to the rear seat. The rca wires were run from the center console to the passenger side panels on the right side of the truck. (it is best to not run the power wire with the rca's so you dont get any engine noise through your sub.
Now for the remote turn on wire (the skinny blue one that turns on your amp when you turn on the vehicle) I did a lot of research and tried a lot of different options and this one seemed to be the cleanest and easiest. The pictures show a computer box under the driver side dash that have some clips in it. Thanks to others on this forum, i found out this is a good connection to receive your 12v source. I purchased some mini crimp connectors and just plugged the remote wire onto the ignition circuit. Works great! when the vehicle turns on, the amp will, and when you turn off the ignition, the amp will turn off. View the pictures below for reference. FYI i wrapped my crimp connector in electrical tape to prevent any touching with other metal components.
Now the next step is the RCA's. I chose to keep the stock head unit because i wanted to keep the steering wheel controls and i heard that the stock Bose system puts out a good clean signal to the speakers and Sub. So i ran the RCA's under the center console and soldered them into the sub output wires between the Bose amp and the Bose sub. After you splice and solder, you need to wrap each individual wire with electrical tape so they do not touch each other. I like to wrap the harness as well to keep everything looking stock as possible.
Channel #1
+ dark blue with white stripe
- light green with black stripe
Channel # 2
+ dark green
- light blue with black stripe
The 2 ground connectors on your LOC unit just wrap together and cover with electrical tape. (these are grounds which you do not need to mount anywhere.
Now after the hard part is done, i mounted my amp to the bottom of the rear seat using some excess MDF i had from the sub enclosure i made. The wires are all attached as shown in the picture, and as you can see, there is enough breathing space when the seat is down to keep your amp cool.
The box i built myself, because im broke and had the extra material lying around from a previous build in a Honda Civic, so give me slack on the crappy carpeting job. You can buy a box for your application for around $130 i think. Over all, the system sounds great and shakes the hell out of my truck! My gain is only at 50% and this is a 300 watt system running at 4 ohms. The pictures are below. Let me know if you should have any questions or advice. I love to learn!!!
