Question... are you blowing stock torque converters? Just curious why you are looking at this.

 

Well my converter shuddering and the Rpms are bouncing when going around 55-60. And I heard u want a lower stall for towing and I don't know how low of a stall to get. I'm pulling 6500# camper

 

What trans/engine ?, how many miles you have in the truck, Do you have additional trans cooling ? are you still running factory or aftermarket ECM/TCM calibration ?
The stock one does the job, if it's shuddering, you might look into buying a new one or having the current rebuilt ?
But is the shuddering the result of too much miles ?, and about to fail verter? a calibration issue ? the tighter the rpm on the verter, the best for towing/offroading etc, etc, but the stock one should be as much tight as you want it to be, you might want to look into having better gearing in the diff if you need more physical torque sent to the wheels rather than looking into a tighter converter.

 

Just my opinion here, but the "lower stall for towing" thing is old and outdated. It was true on the old vehicles, but now we have lockup torque converters.
In the olden days you wanted to lower stall to reduce the heat buildup from the slippage in the converter. Without the Torque Converter Clutch the converters slipped all the time, and it was easy to overheat the transmission. Now, you can have a high stall converter, and once you are moving the TCC locks up, so there is no additional heat and no rpm "loss".
You actually want a higher stall if you tow something heavy. The stall speed lets the engine get up to the higher rpm, where the torque is to be found, much quicker. Without it the truck will be a real dog off the line and will have to downshift more often.

 

Just my opinion here, but the "lower stall for towing" thing is old and outdated. It was true on the old vehicles, but now we have lockup torque converters.
In the olden days you wanted to lower stall to reduce the heat buildup from the slippage in the converter. Without the Torque Converter Clutch the converters slipped all the time, and it was easy to overheat the transmission. Now, you can have a high stall converter, and once you are moving the TCC locks up, so there is no additional heat and no rpm "loss".
You actually want a higher stall if you tow something heavy. The stall speed lets the engine get up to the higher rpm, where the torque is to be found, much quicker. Without it the truck will be a real dog off the line and will have to downshift more often.

Torque converter operation, clutch materials, fluid compositions etc, have changed throughout the years yes, changes that have allowed vehicle manufacturers to make more efficient converter units, but do you know how the factory torque converter works in the 6l80e trans ? Did you know GM still allows slippage in the converter even though you feel it locked? did you know there is ramp rate for converter lockup built into the calibration for the converter to operate that allow this clutch slippage in the verter?, did you know the tcm can command different pressures to account for this ramp rate, built-in clutch slippage and normal clutch wearing ? when you add an aftermarket converter, any aftermarket converter for that matter without tuning your 6l80e trans to account for it, you're trying to apply the same principles built in the factory calibration to a unit that wasn't designed to slip like the factory torque converter does, and this will lead to a failed trans/converter fairly quick, factory units don't have that issue because they're designed to work around everything built in your TCM calibration.

As of today, you don't want a high stall converter for towing, while the efficiency in the torque converters have been increased, a high stall torque converter by nature will slip more, the higher the stall, the more it'll want to slip, slip=heat, and heat will destroy the clutches and your trans guts. Yes the converter will attain lockup at certain speed, remember the strategies for converter lockup are built in your TCM calibration, there is no factory/aftermarket verter that won't slip when installed in the 6l80e unless you tell the tune to not allow the verter to slip when locked, this will kill any aftermarket single clutch converter without a tune in the 6l80e guaranteed, factory converters don't have that problem because their clutches are designed to operate that way, but i don't think none of them have a high stall rpm operation, especially for towing, and will definetly last longer than what the factory ancticipated if you remove that slippage the factory wanted you to have in the factory design, the only cons of doing this with the factory verter, you'll feel the lockup clutch a lot more, not exactly like in the old days when you knew the converter was locked, it's not that bad if you tune it right now days.

Yes there are some hi performance clutches (twin or triple disk torque converters that will sustain all this, typically found in the aftermarket for hi power diesel applications and drag racing, I'm more familiar with the racing type , but the principle remains the same, if you need to raise your operation engine rpm for towing power, the choice should be to change the rear gears, if you want to do the same time during hard launches, (like the ones you do at the strip for better 60's, and better 1/4 mile ET's), then you increase your stall RPM with a performance converter, that will be matched to your trans gearing, engine RPM, Diff final gearing etc, etc.

For a stock truck application, you don't want to reinvent the wheel, the stock stall rpm will work as advertised for your truck engine power level and stock trans/diff ratios.
If you want something more stout, you can let a companies like Yank, Circle D, Precision, etc ,etc to rebuilt your stall with stronger internals, or get a triple clutch unit with a higher stall, but typically you want that to race not to tow, granted, I'm not towing anything, but the fundamentals should be the same, with a higher stall, you'll be able to launch harder, but when the verter starts slipping, it will heat things inside the trans a lot more, with a triple clutch, that wont be much of an issue, as those fackers can really hold up to lots of abuse, but don't expect factory driveability with one of them, you'll feel that biatch locking up for sure ...

 

Agree w/Goat. What you need is extra cooling capacity and possibly a triple disc stock stall for durability. I would not stall up for towing at all, and most aftermarket TC's are not built like a billet triple disc is.