I would probably get a new one. But of you can find a good rebuilder, then it might be cheaper to go that route.

I'd take a look at the monster transmissions. They seem to get decent reviews.

 

Thank you for the quick feedback. I am leaning that way also but I know how quirky rebuilt transmissions can be. I will look at Monster Transmissions.

 

I agree, I would not do all that labor with the possibility of having to do it again soon. I'd have it rebuilt while I had it out.

 

RPM Transmission is another option. It depends on your budget. They will built and send you one. Charge you for a core, but refund it back to you when you send yours back or they will build your.

 

I would agree with the other guy's, it's out rebuild it

 

If money is an issue and its working fine, why mess with rebuilding it? I'd throw it right back in and run until it actually needs new guts.

 

If you have it rebuilt, make sure they rebuild your transmission and you get it back. You know it worked when removed so assuming it was put together right it will work again. 4l60e is very easy to do and hard to mess up. Just my .02 though.

 

Another for rebuilding while it's out...definitely if you have alternative transportation available...no excuses then. :twisted:

 

Thank you all for your feedback. I have been studying the 4L60E and the rebuilder modifications to make the 4L60E more reliable. I have looked at the rebuilt units on Rockauto and they are done by ETE reman selling under Rockauto's brand of The transmission authority. The transmission is $1096 plus $350 core and shipping of $153 which also includes the return of the core back to ETE. Warranty is 3 year unlimited mileage and covers labor only if installed by a certified mechanic. Covers the transmission with me putting it in. Anyone know anything about this company? The reason I am leaning toward a professional reman is they simulate test the transmission on a dyno as well as test the valve body prior to installing it on the transmission. Claim lowest warranty claims in the business. These transmission seem to be sold at most autoparts dealers under different names like National Transmission, The transmission authority etc. The modification to the 4L60e are as they state:

Complete System correction and recalibration kit installed to address several OE flaws. Modifications include updates to the pressure regulator system, valve body accumulator and servos.
High Energy 3-4 clutch pack, upgraded from 6-7 clutches to increase durability and torque capacity.
Completely remanufactured pump, with new line bore bushing to eliminate leaks and provide superior flow and durability
All new, National-Trans-spec bushings installed in key locations to improve internal fluid flow control and fluid pressures
Fully remanufactured and improved torque converter is tested for leaks, lock-up, concentricity, and balance. Upgrades exceed OE requirements and eliminate the possibilities of front seal leaks, premature bushing wear, and vibration.
Complete road simulation using National-Tran's very own dynamometer testing program called C.A.R.S. (Computer Aided Road Simulation). Every transmission is cold and hot tested while using National-Tran's fully synthETEc transmission fluid and filtration system.

 

Yes I would you guys are lucky and have competition to keep prices down , Alaska trans shops want $1600+ bench for shops / jobbers.
Here it's almost worth buying GM serta. buying out of state core and shipping charges add up.

 

Never heard of them, but had good luckwith Rockauto.

 

Around here I can get a 4L60 rebuilt for under a grand, so Ordering, and shipping itsn't too bad assuming you get the core fee back. You're into it for like 1300 bucks.

Kinda makes me wish I would have put the trans in my '00 and kept it as a second vehicle.

 

Still having trans issues?

 

At 296K the truck has never had Transmission issues and I have put off replacing the rear seal to see if it will go ahead and fail on its on and then do both at one time. I changed oil to Castrol GTX High mileage and the leak slowed down quiet a bit so I am living with it for now.

 

I'm no expert but I have rebuilt a few 4l60e transmissions. One I did had over 300K miles on it. There were several parts in the valve body which wore out and caused it to start tearing itself apart. The main problem were the accumulator pistons which are accessible by just dropping the pan and valve body. If these had been replaced it would have kept running just fine. If you were to spend the $10-$20 for new ones and gaskets you might be able to keep driving on that transmission.
Like I said, other than a few valve body components I did not see any other wear. The accumulator piston that did the most damage was for 2nd gear. It had wore out on the center pin and caused a leak which reduced pressure to the 2nd gear band. Since that was slipping it ate into the drum and sent metal powder throughout the system. Consequently 3+4 gears were gone as well.
If you really wanted to save money, going through the transmission valve body while it's still in the truck is a possibility. No special tools required except a metric socket set, screw drivers, needle nose and a torque wrench.
I can't guarantee anything though but if you wanted to roll the dice.

 

Thank you for that information. I will consider doing that to save the transmission. I have always felt that a valve body would be pandora's box but I may try.

 

I found this today and am not sure why I never did before.
http://www.uscars.biz/uscars/extras-documents/ATRA_GM_4L60-4L60E_(700R4)_Rebuild_Procedures.pdf

It's a full rebuild walkthrough with pictures. In case you are interested. It would be a Band-Aid repair at best though. If you have any shudder like you are talking about, it's already started the downward spiral. The 2nd gear band is huge and can take a lot of abuse though.

 

Thank you soooo much for that link. I have always been very good as long as I have a repair manual. That one looks very good.