you need it for an aggressive flat tappet ... valvoline vr1 grey bottle has it and is a very good oil.

 

Not all oils are created equal.
Rotella used to run high zinc and that even changed.
You have to read the labels and compare ZDDP levels between manufacturers. I’m a fan of Lucas hot rod oil. I’ve seen and heard the difference this oil made in a 69 Buick FT 455. The engine ran smoother and quieter with the Lucas vs whatever oil the owner used.

 

file:///C:/Users/steel/Downloads/Mobil%201%20Engine%20Oils%20Product%20Guide%20Sheet%20-May%202022.pdf Or Google mobil 1 oils spec sheet. Most basic 5/30 run 750ppm anymore. Specialty oils like "HD" / Diesel rated oils are higher. IIRC 20/5 is NOT in the target of regulating agencies for ZDDP if your needing something like that. You also can google the PQIA and check out pretty much every to be had in the world as far as specs or ratings. Good luck and see you in a few weeks after your thoroughly confused on what brand to use now.

 

That's what I was afraid of. This doesn't effect my 15, but I have a 71 350, a 91 305, a 94 350 LT1, an 84 Marine 305, and a 05 Honda 4 banger, so I'm totally confused. My wife's uncle who is an older gearhead than I, told me just to add the ZDDP with an oil change, but I'm not sure I want to do that as yet.

 

Just buy the Valvoline oil and you don’t have to worry over it.

 

Not necessarily as they use the same ZDDP PPM as the rest of the mfg'ers in their basic API energy conserving oils.. Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck 5/40 has 1300 PPM ZDDP as well as several others they bottle or if your a valvoline fan see below. Im not a huge fan of boutique oils, personally stick with M1 or Valvoline stuff in the bikes or atv's and jeep.

• Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil: Contains 75% higher zinc than SN or SM motor oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and traditional applications. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: 20w50, straight 50, 10w30, straight 30, straight 40 and straight 60.
• Longer-Lasting Zinc/Phosphorus: Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine instead of poisoning the catalytic converter.

 

The 91 should be a roller cam, same as 94 350.
The boat is likely flat tappet
The 4 banger is likely OHV with roller tips
The only 2 I’d run a high zinc formula are the 71 and the boat.

 

More Zinc (ZDDP) doesn’t mean more protection. Extra Zinc only means the additive will last longer before it’s used up.

 

[QUOTE="i82] you need it for an aggressive flat tappet ... valvoline vr1 grey bottle has it and is a very good oil. [/QUOTE]

I agree....after building up a 400 HP from a Chevy 350 4 bolt main for my Vette, I HAD to use a high zinc oil, and I chose Valvoline ZR-1 Racing oil....

 

You need ZDPP for any flat tappet cam, wether hi po or not. Yes, the cam may already be hardened from use, but the factory blanks went to crap in the late 70’s…. Causing many failures. That’s when manufacturers started going to roller cams.

 

If you aren't running ZDDP in a flat tappet engine you can expect to prematurely wipe a cam lobe. Older idi diesels also need high zinc and phosphorous as well. Delo changed their formula a few years back to the new CK4 rating which cut out a lot of the zinc and phosphorous they used to have (<900ppm ZDDP). Rotella was the strong front runner once that happened, but they converted over to the new CK4 rating as well not too long ago, but they didn't alter their formula to the degree that Delo did. Specifically for T4 15w40 heavy duty diesel engine oil, Shell still states 1200ppm of ZDDP and minimal change in phosphorous levels (this data is from 2019ish).

If you can find a true CJ4 oil then that is what you want, otherwise assume to be adding ZDDP additive to whatever oil you chose unless you end up with proper racing oil. No oil for a gas engine aside from expensive racing oil is going to have the ZDDP you need for your flat tappet engines. The lucas additive has worked well for myself and those around me here.

I run T4 15w40 in everything out here on the farm since it still has the better rating for ZDDP and phosphorous. Everything as in the small gas pickups, the large gas trucks, and everything diesel. The old 292 much prefers the T4, I just have to warm her up properly on a cold morning when 15/40 really does not like to flow. And don't worry about thick diesel oil in a gasser, it is perfectly fine, just allow for proper warmup times. The only vehicles here not on T4 are the GMT800's & 900's.

VR1 is great, but I personally don't bother with it or other racing oils. It is significantly more expensive than the T4 that I buy in bulk 5gal pails and I go thru a lot in a year as the trucks/equipment are used weekly. Your situation may be different however.

 

 

You don't need need high zinc to run a flat tappet cam , just really good synthetic. Look up Rat 540 oil blog and read it. No break in oil needed, follow camshaft manufacturer instructions

 

This may be true with a billet cam blank but an off the shelf cam needs the additional protection to ensure longevity.

All my hi po engines have some sort of zinc in them… even though they’re roller engines. The quality of the metals used these days are crap.. I mean look at how quickly trucks rust out nowadays.

 

Not doubting you please read Rat 540's blog and he'll explain it's the PSI pressures and the film strengths any information is always appreciated

 

I agree that seat pressure and pressure at maximum lift would affect things for sure… but after putting 20K into an engine, I’d rather have the peace of mind a little zinc and phosphorus adds.

 

Nothing to do with sheet pressure it's all on the pressure between the cam road and being flat tappet that is where you need your film strength of over 100,000 pounds per square inch or greater please reap thread for a rat 540

 

(by hanback} "VR1 is great, but I personally don't bother with it or other racing oils. It is significantly more expensive than the T4 that I buy in bulk 5gal pails and I go thru a lot in a year as the trucks/equipment are used weekly. Your situation may be different however"

Well, YEAH, our situations are different....not many of us live on a farm and can buy large quantities to get a better price break...but ME, for example, I only have ONE VETTE, and 5 gallon pails are NOT efficient for me....spesly when I only drive the VETTE during decent weather...No winter crap! I do have a '19 Silverado, and a 2011 Camaro to drive, besides the wife's '20 Equinox IF I HAVE TO!!

 

I have read a bunch of stories about high zinc in oil for break in and they go flat. I would use recommended weight oil depending on clearances on bearings. Use a good synthetic oil and take it out and drive it how you are going to drive it. No break in. If your going to have issues better to have them rite away. We used to put motors together fire them up get out in the street and squeeze them with nitrous if it's going to blow it's going to blow close to your house that's the way we did it when I was a kid if your motor's built right you're good

 

I'm not a chemist, but diesel oils are not gasoline oils. You can't just look at zddp...

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I don't disagree, but it isnt that simple. Everything has changed with the new SP, SN, CK, CJ ratings and to be considered for SP/SN (which are the gas engine ratings) then the oil has to meet strict phosphorous and ZDDP levels since excessive amounts can cause issues with modern vehicle emissions systems, namely with degraded CAT performance etc. No modern engines utilize flat tappet lifters and OP is referencing older vehicles.

I wont argue that different detergent packs and additives can have adverse effects, but on old carbureted non-racing engines, you aren't going to effect the life any quicker than you will by not having enough ZDDP for flat tappets. Thats my point.

 

It's all what you want everyone believes something so we don't argue whatever works for you