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Discussion starter · #21 ·
MMZ71 said:
I've read a good bit about the gear on the distributor wearing out, and being a common issue on these engines. Have you pulled the distributor?
So what would the symptoms be for a bad distributor? We had it out and inspected it when we were replacing the intake gaskets. I didn't notice any wear but wouldn't really know what I was looking for.
 
Worn gear. Broke pin that holds the gear on the shaft. Bad bearings (hard to rotate the shaft). Slop in anything. Rusty crusties.

That's about it.

I would also try a new pick up coil and ignition module. Those things can make it fire funky if they are on their way out. And the way to replace those two items is a new distributor. If you go this route, keep your old distributor. I got one the other day that was bad out of the box and needed the old one to confirm the issue.
 
I also have a 98 Z71 with the 5.7L engine, and last time I got it smogged it failed due to a misfire. It took my mechanic a week to diagnosis the real issue, along with a factory rep for the analysis equipment they use. Turned out to be worn out hydraulic valve lifters ( along with lower oil pressure due to the miles on my engine). Lifter was not pumping up to correct height. New lifters solved my problem.

It took some very sophisticated analysis equipment to find it, though. hope this helps, if you know someone who can do the diagnosis.

CarloPel
 
justins1998 said:
Any suggestions on the best quality brand to get? I've hear MSD and Accel are crap now.
'

OE acdelco if you can even find one.

Edit... I went and looked at rock auto, they have a delphi and ac delco that are $234 and $261, but those should be the best available. I would absolutely be cool with the delphi that's a little cheaper. Delphi makes very high quality parts. OEM level. So does ac delco. However... we put a $80 one in the other day and it's doing just fine.... another however, we put a $80 one in another truck recently and it wasn't fine. So the cheapies are hit and miss. The MSD was a pig with lots of lipstick on it.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
00pooterSS said:
Worn gear. Broke pin that holds the gear on the shaft. Bad bearings (hard to rotate the shaft). Slop in anything. Rusty crusties.

That's about it.

I would also try a new pick up coil and ignition module. Those things can make it fire funky if they are on their way out. And the way to replace those two items is a new distributor. If you go this route, keep your old distributor. I got one the other day that was bad out of the box and needed the old one to confirm the issue.
Okay so I put a new quality distributor in, new cam sensor included, and I put in a new ignition module and ignition coil. Also a new Mass airflow sensor. Greatly improved, I took it down the interstate and set the cruise at 75 and waited for the hills. Was doing better than ever before. It climbed several hills without issue, but at the very top at one of the longest hills it down shifted and threw the P0305 code again, although practically no shaking of the truck. I'm wondering if I'm getting closer, but there is no real timing adjustment on these vortec distributors. Actually, I had to use an old style clamp so that I could rotate the distributor a bit to get it within the -2 to 2 degree tolerance to get the crank/camshaft correlation p1345 code to go away. Thoughts?
 
Probably a stretched timing chain if you couldn't get the distributor to line up like it should using the keyed retainer. If you had to over rotate the distributor something that turns it isn't lined up. Whether it be the cam timing is out or the distributor gear is off or distributor was stabbed wrong. You may want to see if you can get the original distributor to line up on the keyed retainer and be able to hit the + or - 2

If it will and the new one wont. Something is going on there. If neither will then I would suspect the timing chain being stretched.

Still concerned about valve springs too.
 
00pooterSS said:
Probably a stretched timing chain if you couldn't get the distributor to line up like it should using the keyed retainer. If you had to over rotate the distributor something that turns it isn't lined up. Whether it be the cam timing is out or the distributor gear is off or distributor was stabbed wrong. You may want to see if you can get the original distributor to line up on the keyed retainer and be able to hit the + or - 2

If it will and the new one wont. Something is going on there. If neither will then I would suspect the timing chain being stretched.

Still concerned about valve springs too.
I could understand about the valves and I have a set to go in that has a 120 lb closing strength instead of 80 lb. We are just trying one thing at a time before we tear into the engine again. There was a little difference in the way the new one was clocked, either that or the old one was tweaked...We had to rotate the new one a hair it to get it to match. The guy I've been working with is a friend, he was certified up until about 2004. He said he checked a few things and didn't believe it was a timing chain issue.
Yesterday I got a hold of a little bit better scanner and used the OEM advanced function and got several powertrain codes that don't show up on the DTC scan...
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holy crap that's a lot of codes

The only real one i'd be concerned about at this time is possibly the control module codes and the insufficient engine temp code. Does it run cool all the time?

Should run right around 200

The o2 sensor heater codes and cat codes shouldn't affect anything
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
00pooterSS said:
holy crap that's a lot of codes

The only real one i'd be concerned about at this time is possibly the control module codes and the insufficient engine temp code. Does it run cool all the time?

Should run right around 200

The o2 sensor heater codes and cat codes shouldn't affect anything
I have a GM tech2 clone coming. Bound and determined to get to the bottom of it. I have another truck that needs the ABs bleed capability so I just went ahead and bought the scanner, and if it ends up being the PCM I can reflash the new one with it. However, looks like a wiring or ground issue could cause these 601-604 codes so we are going to run through those first.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Just to update after a while trying different things. The computer swap went well without a hitch. reprogramming successful but no change in performance the miss is still there and getting worse it seems...cruise control wont even stay engaged on the interstate now. New coil and ignition module seemed to make things even worse. I've already had to replace those with a third so it actually starts good. Want to drive it off a cliff.
 
I have a customer with the exact issue you are facing. He likes to do his own work and I told him to check for broken springs. His misfire code sets a P0303, but at 2500 RPM in neutral it shows misfires on #5.

I'll update you when he gives me feedback.
 
justins1998 said:
I haven't been able to. I'll have to hire a mechanic I think my friend is tired of working on this truck with me. lol
They're fairly easy. A basic spring compressor from autozone will do the job. Valve covers are easy to pull.

Just need to fill the cylinder with air or string to keep the valves from falling down while pulling the springs.
 
Customers valve springs were fine, but what fixed his is the simplest thing, and I don't know why I didn't think of it on his first visit. :oops:

It may cure yours as well, specially since you replaced the ECM.

Crank relearn.
 
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