[Austin]

Fraterado1855, I had that same problem. Read my topic called Cannot remove transmission pan

 

[jdelrizzle]

On my 2wd I only had to remove the linkage bracket, on my dads z71 I had to remove the front drive shaft, linkage bracket, and loosen the tail shaft. I had read to just bend the bracket out of the way but it just seemed like a half a$$ job to me, so I sprayed some penetrating fluid on the bolts and let them soak for a minute, they came right off.

 

[Machster69]

Ill be doing this job near the end of the week... So once i remove the torx screw on top the bracket should move out the way correct?

 

[jdelrizzle]

Yes that is correct only had to remove the top Torx bit screws( to move the shifting cable bracket out of the way) you can remove the heat shield on the passenger side of the tranny for easier access to the bolts on that side, but I didn't. Pan came right off on my 2011 cc 2wd

 

[hogwildmike]

Its your choice. Save a little on serving and spend alot on a rebuild the choice is yours.
TWO IMPORTANT THINGS TO MAKE TRANSMISSION LAST LONGER
1. REDUCE HEAT install aux cooler
2. SERVICE THE TRANSMISSION
if you don't you will pay someone like me to rebuild it sooner than later.

I realize that this particular reply/post is 3 years old now, however, I have to give my 2-cents worth.

From my 4 years of mechanic schooling, which was back in my high-school years (1997-2000) plus one year at the University of Arkansas, if I remember correctly (as its been a while since I've had any schooling on auto mechanics), but if I remember correctly, its really not a good idea to mix synthetics and non-synthetics in the transmissions. Same principle applies to why you should never mix synthetic/non-synthetic oils in the engine. The two different fluids just don't jive with each other.. meaning, they don't mix well.. and can actually cause problems.

Lastly, my personal opinion? Whenever it comes to transmissions.. IMO its actually better to just go ahead and order a crate transmission (brand new) instead of taking it somewhere to have it rebuilt. I say that for many reasons. For one, a brand new transmission will not only come with a longer/better warranty, but will generally speaking, last longer than a rebuilt one will. Another reason behind my opinion, is that (and I'm not blaming any specific transmission shops) some transmission shops will intentionally do a poor job/rebuild because they generally want your return business/money and they want you to HAVE to come back to them and not some other 'rebuild shop'.

I also speak my opinion based on personal experience. I've had both. I had a Turbo-350 and a Turbo-400 transmission rebuilt back when I still had my 1968 Chevy Camaro. The T-350 didn't last but 9 months before it bit the dust.. and the T-400 transmission, it last a little longer than a year. Both transmissions were rebuilt from two different rebuild shops. After those two transmissions went 'klapooot!' on me, I saved up my money from my high-school job (washing dishes at a local restaurant) and by the time I graduated in 2000, I had enough saved up to buy a brand new crate-transmission from Jegs Racing magazine. I put over 170k miles on that transmission and never had a single problem from it. Oh, the actual company I ordered the new transmission from, was TCI Transmissions.

But anyhow, each to their own. Everyone has their own likes and dislikes. But, if someone were to ask me if I would have a transmission rebuilt or simply just pay the little extra money for a brand new transmission? I would definitely tell them to go and spend the little extra money for a brand new one.

 

[gmcultr]

If I was going to buy a new transmission I'd go with Jasper. 3 year 100k warranty. They claim their new sunshell design eliminates the mist common 4l60e problems.

 

[ASTE25]

I had enough saved up to buy a brand new crate-transmission from Jegs Racing magazine. I put over 170k miles on that transmission and never had a single problem from it. Oh, the actual company I ordered the new transmission from, was TCI Transmissions.

You do realize that TCI transmissions are rebuilt units, correct? I agree with a lot of your post, however, if done right, a rebuilt transmission will last as long as a new one. The ones that don't last long are only because of cheap parts used or the rebuilder doesnt take the time to measure and set the clearances to their correct specifications (or a combination of both). TCI transmissions are very high quality, as you can tell from your experience with them.

 

[TankerTrash]

I realize this post is a year old, but I'm new here. I have a WYNN'S Trans. "Flush" machine. These machines, mine anyway, does not "flush" the fluid out. The machine hooks "in line" of the existing "fluid flow". In my machines case, direction of fluid flow is not an issue, so I go for the easiest fitting to get to on the vehicle, some at the rad., some at the tranny. The battery is the power to the machine. The real pressure "pump" is the torque converter.

The new fluid is put in to the machine.The machine is in the "loop" mode, The vehicle is started and checked for leaks,( or the lack thereof!) My machine detects fluid flow direction and the "internal pump", which is spun by the fluid flow pressure, turns in that direction. After all is good, so far, a switch( flush) is turned on the machine, and it starts a second internal "pump" linked to the first pump, so the fluid goes in at the same rate as the fluid coming out.. Also, a 4-way valve in the machine turns to now direct the used fluid out the back of the machine into a container, and starts pumping the new fluid in. Remember, this is being done with the torque converter fluid pressure. So, it's NOT a forced "flush". It is a fluid "exchange". I always put at least 1 more qt. in the machine, than the book amount, to be sure I get a complete or more complete exchange of all the fluid. I can't even tell you how many I've done, but it's alot. I don't do this for a living, but as a side job.
I'm an Amsoil dealer and I will end it there, as I have seen other dealers on the site, "Hello brothers"!

As far as the pan, and if there is a drain bolt, If you're dropping the pan anyway, forget the bolt. Some pans have a "crimped" thread boss in the pan. So, when your under the vehicle grunting to get the drain plug out, i have experienced the threaded boss spin with the bolt! NOW you're screwed!! I NEVER try to remove the drain bolt, cause I always drop the pan AFTER the fluid exchange part of the service. The vehicle is now turned off and the lines are put back to original placement.Then, I will drop the pan and SAVE the NEW fluid that is going to be in the pan,( about 4-7 qts.?) and set aside while I clean the pan, magnet and mating surfaces. On most of the vehicles I've serviced, the pan gasket, from the factory, is reusable. Of course, after a Close inspection. Never had a leak on any of the ones that I reinstalled. After the cleaning and new filter is installed, the pan goes back on and I take the saved NEW fluid, and refill the trans. up to the proper level, most likely a quart or so to top off to the correct level.

That all being said, i will doing a trans. service on my '09 this summer. YES, i've delt with the "dreaded linkage" issue on the 4L60E. Who came up with that?? I totally agree with some others on this site: HEAT Is the killer of most fluids!! Vehicles today are running hotter than ever and less and less air flow in and around eng./trans. just accelerate the breakdown.

Hope this helps, I know some folks just want to drop the pan and change the filter, but, I look at that this way: Would you drain only half the bath water out before you got in ??? Think about it, It really doesn't take that much "old "fluid to degrade the new fluid your putting in!!! Then, what have you gained?? Any comments welcome.
"

 

[Crabman]

^^^Nice writeup explaining the fluid flush process. If I understand it correctly I have to ask though why you change the fluid first and then drop the pan? Won`t the new fluid possibly mix with any residual sludge in the bottom of the pan or the old filter? I recently completely changed the fluid/filter in both my trucks using the method below, and was pleased with the results:

How To Do A 4l60e Complete Fluid Changeover + Filter

 

[TankerTrash]

With the truck just idiling, the fluid is not getting all stirred up . If any thing should "break loose" during the flush, I'd like to think it will get caught in the "old" filter. The process takes about 10-15 min. so there is not alot of time for the new oil to "stir up the crap" in the pan. The pans I've dropped have The "crud film" and of course, the "cream" on the magnet. It takes some wiping to get that pan clean. So this ,IMO, is the best way to do this. I have in the past also added a "trans. cleaner" - 16 oz. bottle, to the tranny PRIOR to the flush process to help "devarnish". That and all the fluid in the tranny gets exchanged out.

 

[zrxkawboy]

No worries on mixing conventional and synthetic fluids. Did you know that some Dex VI fluids are a syn blend? That's right, dino and syn blended in the same bottle, right from the mfr, and they function just fine and meet all GM specs.

 

[Shawner]

I seem to remember reading that you need to make sure the filter matches the existing depending on whether the pan is deep or not. Does it look like this part will work? Only reason I ask is I got the wrong oil filter from the parts store the other day and had to run into Walmart at 9:30PM on Friday.

 

[vern1988]

I seem to remember reading that you need to make sure the filter matches the existing depending on whether the pan is deep or not. Does it look like this part will work? Only reason I ask is I got the wrong oil filter from the parts store the other day and had to run into Walmart at 9:30PM on Friday.

You have the deep pan. Part number 24208576 from ACdelco - as seen here

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9 ... PDKIKX0DER

 

[Shawner]

Thanks vern. Replaced the filter, the kit came with a cork gasket. I guess I overtightened it cause it was weeping a fair bit. Worked out ok though, ran it for a while keeping it topped up, probably ended up cycling the fluid through at least once lol.

I figured that if I had to drop the pan again, might as well install a new pan with a drain plug in it so I also ordered a Dorman 265-811 tranny oil pan. On my 2007 Silverado classic (4.8L 4x4), it fit perfectly. Plus, it was only $12.50!

 

[CheezyRiderAZ]

To KatJar503,

First off, thanks for your article. It's guys like you that make DIY doable.

If I do the "RedNeck" flush by detaching a cooler line and letting the tranny pump out the old fluid while I pour in the new stuff, should I do this BEFORE I drop the pan and change the filter or AFTER?

I have a 2013 with 6 speed. 40K now, planning on service by 50K.
I believe my capacity is about 12 quarts so I'm gonna buy and have four gallons on hand.
Also planning to order the Dorman replacement pan with drain.
I usually get my parts at NAPA or RockAuto who lists Auto Extra, Hastings, Wix, Fram, ATP,and ACDelco, filters. My unedumacated choice would be Wix, what's yours?

Are there any tips or tricks specific for my truck?