NICE work. There are other styles of hose clamps that may work better if that one does not.

 

That's a good tip funnytoe. Thanks for taking the pics as well.

 

Very good write up. I might have chosen to use the fuel injection style clamp instead (if they make them that big). Here is a picture of the type of clamp I am talking about:

 

Great job! Thanks for the writeup and pics.

 

Nice work, and very nice job with the cut off wheel!!!

 

I'm not a fan of the clams I grabbed. I haven't seen the fuel injection type ones .those do look really nice. Anyway the 3/8 line goes in so tight that putting a little bit of oil or spitting on it is a must to slip the line all the way up to the flange.to pull it back off your better off cutting it. It fits perfect . I will leave those clamps on there cause my old ass is soar from all the work of removing the axle.Next time I change the oil I will change the clamps. This could be done with out removing it. But I had to try it first . You Just have to be really careful not to damage the hard line when cutting the factory clamp off.

You would think GM would put threaded ends on the rubber hoses to make the easy to change or clamps. Instead of making you change the entire assembly. Well my truck at this point has easy change out oil cooler hose.

 

Great write up.

 

I will leave those clamps on there cause my old ass is soar from all the work of removing the axle.Next time I change the oil I will change the clamps.

I probably wouldn't bother at this point. I'd wait until (or if) they start leaking. I wouldn't chance messing with it since it's not leaking now. The clamps you have now are fine, they are just made in a way it makes it easy for someone to overtighten and damage the hose. It looks like you did not do that and they are working great now.

 

Nice write up and you did it yourself, plus saved yourself some cash. I often see hoses with failed crimps, almost Ike it's a manufactured defect from the factory. It could also be that the crimps don't take kindly to being twisted Into place. Either way you are all set now. Thanks for sharing.

 

This is a great how to on repairing those pesky leaking lines everyone has on their trucks.

 

Nice write up! How much did you spend vs replacing with GM parts? I bet it was a bunch? Not to mention what labor would be at dealer!

 

It's been over a year. I Cant remember how much I spent on parts.
But it was just a couple of feet of transmission line clamps and the gasket . Around $10 for the gasket. I think the lines are close to $100 .

Now if it fails I just lossen the clams and stick a new hose and done.

 

Seeing this older write-up convinced me to sign-up to this forum. This is good stuff, I happen to be in the process of this repair currently.I just happen to have the power steering pump out for repair also and can say it makes getting these lines in and out easier. So.. after fishing-in the newly purchased dorman replacement lines, I realized the chinese didnt properly bend them in the correct places preventing the lines from lining-up with the ports on the block and really pinching them along the block. The new rubber sections of these lines also looked and felt like garbage. So after pulling the new junk back out, I ended-up finding this forum. Im excited to try this intead with my old lines. Ill be returning the chinese junk. Anyone else, dont waist your time and money on the dorman set !!

 

I remember reading this post awhile ago and thinking i sure hope that doesnt happen to me! My hoses have been seeping from the crimp for awhile now, but i havent had any major issues. I ended up doing something similar to this for the transmission cooler lines. However, i just finished changing my oil and noticed a leak coming from above the oil filter housing, right where the oil cooler lines go into the system.

The dealer wants 107.84 for the part, and 230 for labor. Since my lines have lasted 108k miles, i figure i will go with the new acdelco part since it is leaking from both ends now. Amazon has it for 63 or so. But, how easy is it to remove the lines and replace them? Could be a crappy job in 15 degree weather, but worth the money saved.

Thanks for any advice.

 

I did this today and spent $30.00 total including $9.00 for a new block seal. Started it up and let idle till temp with no leaks. I got done late because it took me all day after pt first as I've had bone grafting on my left leg. ( hobble hobble) I dropped the font diff but some how a wire harness was wraped around the hard lines. Errrrr! I'll take it for a test drive tomarrow and hope hard lines don't leak at the block plate.

 

I just saw this , what an idea!!! Just one comment. Would take PEX crimp ferrule work even better for this job?
I always get a bit hesitant about using simple worm clamps on higher pressure applications with big $$$$$$ signs. I think I'd at least go with the ones with no diagonal cutouts to harm the rubber , fuel injection type clamps , and still double clamp them.

 

So you used clamps at both ends of rubber hose?

Think I might try just:

1. cutting old ends including crimp from old tubing with tube cutters.

2. Flaring ends of tube a little

3. Pushing hose over flares and clamping. Flares will prevent hose from blowing off with oil pressure.

- this can be done on truck without removing engine end or dropping front axle.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

Does the oil filter need to be removed to take the old lines out? How much oil can I expect to lose that's going to be in the lines?

 

The filter does not need to come off. The lines are on the side with two bolts holding it on. I had about a few ounces come out that I captured on the motor side when I swapped mine.

Some details an pictures here. I was doing a motor mount change at the same time. Nealinator's 2010 GMC Sierra All Terrain Build

It is about mid way down on that post were I did the oil cooler lines. I had the driver side fender liner out to help with the motor mount and that gave really good access to the oil cooler lines...esp with a 4x4 and the diff in the way.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Planning on tackling this once the rain quits.

 

Good writeup.
Transmission line can be identified by the SAE rating number. It's SAE J1910. I've had the parts guys try to sell me fuel line and un-rated hose for transmission coolers. J30R7, J30R9 fuel line and the unknown pedigree hose are not rated for hot lube oil so they break down and swell up.

Ideal worm clamps in this size have chintzy worm retainers and the entire band is slotted for the worm so these small fuel and lube hoses outer jacket will extrude through the slots.
German Fuel Injection clamps are the thing to use... or Oetiker Ear Clamps. The Oetiker clamps are single use and can't be snugged up if needed so I lean toward the fuel injection clamps but both will work and work well.

 

On my 05 1500HD I heard a faint dinging at 6000 rpm in 2nd gear... look down and the dic says oil pressure low. Had to fumble around to get the keys in the ignition as the cylinder is so wore out I just lay them on the console while driving. Blew the feed line to the cooler completely off so no oil going to the engine.

Dug a block off plate I had kicking around out and put that on after tossing the lines in the trash... has better oil pressure now than I have seen in years. Cooler is useless anyway lol.

 

The filter does not need to come off. The lines are on the side with two bolts holding it on. I had about a few ounces come out that I captured on the motor side when I swapped mine.

Some details an pictures here. I was doing a motor mount change at the same time. Nealinator's 2010 GMC Sierra All Terrain Build

It is about mid way down on that post were I did the oil cooler lines. I had the driver side fender liner out to help with the motor mount and that gave really good access to the oil cooler lines...esp with a 4x4 and the diff in the way.

Great post and pics.
About to do mine tomorrow so while searching online I found your post.
Did you have to drop the front diff to pull the cooler lines out?

 

I did not have to drop mine. I had the motor mount out due to needing to repair that so did the lines at the same time. I have seen others on here able to snake them in without removing anything. Its just a little tedious to do so.

 

Luckily I have access to a lift for this repair.
Do you recommend pulling the inner fender to make it easier to snake out the lines?