[L.O.]

Depending on what tyranny you have and what rear gear ratio, going to a higher gear might be the better cheaper option for running 33's. Less strain on the tranny and better mpg in city especially with the 6 speed. I would suggest that if you do any tuning to the transmission for firmer shifting/torque converter lockup to upgrade the cooler. That is if you even have one. Only seen your profile pic looks like you have a extended cab. So I don't know what your packing. A good tuner will charge you about 500-600usd for a custom dyno/street tune and part of that is for the credits to unlock your truck. So any changes down the road like regearing or tiresizes will be cheaper and no wait and hands on. I rather not wait on emails and files to adjust over and over. Alot of poeple swear by diablew and blackbear. Im just the sort of guy to look a man/woman in the eye before they tamper with my expensive piece of lovelyhood. An intake alone won't net you much and thats in the higher rpm band. Most don't even do sh*t but make noise till you tune it. Upgrading your exhaust with an intake helps with air flow. But for maximum benefit would be a custom tune, most will be in the transmission. Also tell them not to fk with the torque management or you'll be having it rebuilt sooner then later. If your lifting your truck more the a simple 1-3", say goodbye to your highway mileage unless your going to be grandmaing in the right lane. I got a lowered 2010 crew cab with intake/exhaust/headers/underdrive crank running 93 custom tune with 5.3l 6 speed with the shtty 308 gears. I told him to be on the conservative side not to overdo the timing in case I get bad gas. I'm only getting 297hp to the wheels. Afm turned off, stock cam, 188k on the clock and getting 16.3 mpg average doing city and highway. A good idea is to get the old intake back on till you decide what you want. Max I seen an intake give on dyno for the nnbs is about 15hp on a 93 tune for a 5.3l the timing was ridiculous and thats at 5500 rpms. Get a gm oem/Delphi sensor if yours is bad. They are a dime a dozen.

 

[L.O.]

If your mechanicaly inclined and have the right tools, Ron's machine service sells oem AAM gears roughly 400usd that's with tax included. I recommend OEM gears. Not that chinese yukon crap like buying john deere parts made in china. If you plan on changing the carrier as well he sells Eaton trutrac with aam gears and install kit for like 900usd. If your running the 4 speed I recommend 4.10 gears. You have the 4l65e. Also if your truck didn't come with the heavy duty towing package I highly recommend a transmission cooler. If your going to 33s. Going 3.73 won't make a difference for the cost. Labor for a single axle cost 600 to 1500 depending on where you go. With that added weight of the grill gaurd and lift I highly recommend the gear swap to 4.10, especially if you tow. Also go to Oregon performance transmissions and buy there corvette servo for the 4l65e roughly 75$. It'll take you 1 to 2 hours to install just need a prybar snap ring plyers and and a large c clamp. Very easy install. It has more surface area and better apply pressure for 1-2 2-3 shifts. I installed on my wife's single cab 2010. Direct bolt on. If you change gears you will need to readjust your gearing in the computer so your traction controller works. So a tuner like diablo or a custom tune will do it or the dealership will do it for 150 with a tech 2.